Spotlight: Macaron Class

On a windy cold day in February, I am embarked on my second Mille Feuille class to learn the art of the macaron. We began with an introduction to the chef, a round of hand-washing and tying plastic aprons on, and we were off to the races.

First, we combined sugar and water in a saucepan, heating until 245 degrees. As the mixture was warming, we beat egg whites together until the frothiness disappeared. At peak temperature, we added the sugar into the egg whites, beating at a high speed until stiff shiny peaks appeared and the bowl itself started to cool. The mixture should look uniform – when the sugar is first introduced, the edges will still look foamy. This is called Italian meringue, and is the only type of meringue you can use for the batter.

In a separate larger mixing bowl, we combined almond flour, powdered sugar, egg whites and food coloring (if needed). After quartering the Italian meringue, we added it to the almond flour batter one quarter at a time. With the first two rounds we used a firm spoon, and a softer spatula with the last two, focusing on folding in the meringue. We looked for consistency in color and texture, and were careful to to avoid over-mixing. At the end of the mixing process, there were slight waves in the dough and when picked up with a pastry scraper, each batter had a consistent ribbon flow from the edge.

Pipe the dough onto a baking sheet covered in parchment paper. Each participant had a grid of small circles underneath the parchment to help guide us toward evenly sized and spaced shells. We started in the middle of each circle, flipping the bag completely straight downward and squeezing slowly 1/4″ away from the parchment paper. This allowed the circle to fill evenly without creating peaks. After completing a row (or two), we picked up our trays and banged on the bottom. This got rid of air bubbles and also helped to flatten the cookies for a shiny smooth texture. Once the sheet was full, our instructor placed them in a warm area to dry for 20-24 minutes.

We tested the shells by lightly tapping on the top with a fingertip – if any batter stuck, they were not quite ready. Once our fingers came away clean, the trays went into the oven.

While they baked, we prepared the ganaches, making vanilla, pistachio and chocolate to complement the three doughs made earlier. Each began by boiling cream until it just started to froth, then immediately adding it to a combination of chocolate, flavoring and, in the case of the chocolate ganache, butter. Once combined, we whipped with a whisk until it completely smooth. We were also treated to macaron samples as we waited. The espresso was rich and intense, the green tea matcha was earthy and captured the essence of the flavor, and the raspberry was sharp and full-bodied.

Once the baking is complete and the macarons have cooled for several minutes, we slid the parchment paper off of the baking sheet. Placing another sheet of paper over the macarons, we were then instructed to flip them in one fluid motion, pulling the top long-side corners together and away from us. It was slightly terrifying, but the macarons stick to the initial paper without issue. Using a tray with a sharp edge, we separated the parchment paper from the shells. I was quite cautious with this step, and it took me a few minutes. You can apply more pressure than you think without ruining them!

We then matched up each kind by size – mine were nowhere near uniform, and you want similar-sized macarons for each sandwich. Typically it is better to wait 24-36 hours before filling the shells. However, if you can’t wait – like in a 2.5 hour class – you can spray the shells with water (very lightly) before filling. We piped the ganache in a similar fashion to the shells, leaving a slight border. After completing a row, I placed each corresponding shell on top and lightly twisted the two together.

Once complete macarons can last up to five days in the fridge, or a few weeks in the freezer. The experience was delightful and less intimidating than I thought it would be. I would not have attempted to bake these myself without the class, and now I am excited to try it on my own sometime soon!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Spotlight: Croissant Class – Take One

I finally took the plunge, and signed up for a croissant class at Mille Feuille‘s Laguardia Place location in Greenwich Village this December. As a huge fan of their croissants for years, this felt like the appropriate place to begin my tutelage.

The participants slowly began trickling into the back of the small storefront. Our instructor introduced himself, provided aprons for everyone and started class. We began by shaping our croissants, as they needed to proof before baking. Typically baking croissants is a three-day process, but this has been condensed considerably for this three-hour course! Our instructor walked us through the basic shapes and techniques, and provided constructive criticism to improve our individual trays of treats. After we had worked our way through the dough provided, rolling as carefully as possible, he popped them into the proofing drawer.

From there, he demonstrated the butter-layering process. I am embarrassed to say I had no idea how much butter was added to these delightful breads. After beating our slabs of butter into rectangular shapes, we slowly began the rolling, folding and re-rolling process. It was quite the lower arm work-out, and I was thankful to be moving around, as the air-conditioning made the room chilly. Our instructor would later inform us that it needed to be relatively cold in the room to ensure the butter did not begin to melt, which would ruin the croissants. They do recommend bringing an extra sweater in the event it is too cold!

After the croissants were done proofing, we slathered them in egg wash, re-arranged them on our trays for optimal baking, and then he placed them into the oven. He used a few of the leftover slivers as “appetizers,” and they were a delicious way to create a natural break for the class. I only wish they had provided the hot drink (described online), but unfortunately one was never offered.

Finally, he showed us how to make the dough and how to test if the gluten has been activated. A pro tip: if the gluten has been activated, croissant dough can be used as pizza dough instead!

All in all, the session was very informative, and I left the bakery with over 15 croissants and my own butter-layered dough for baking my next versions at home.

I would absolutely recommend it to anyone looking to learn more about how croissants are made or to hone their baking skills. Next up will be the macaron class!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Spotlight: Ladureé Ladureé

Another birthday has come and gone and would not have been complete without a box of Ladureé macarons. The decorative packaging, the prestige surrounding the lauded French establishment, the beauty of the colorful cookies…and did I mention the taste?

The chocolate macaron manages to be light and fudgy, the pistachio is nutty, the caramel rich and decadent, and the raspberry sweet and tart, the filling scattered with seeds. The Marie Antoinette perplexed me with the robin’s egg-blue hue and difficult to distinguish flavor profile. A bit of Googling helped me determine it is traditionally black tea and honey, but unfortunately the treat was long-gone by the time of this discovery.

An added perk for receiving such a gift for my birthday? I didn’t have to wait in the (historically long) line, though it is a dream to make it to the original location in Paris. In the meantime, I will stick to visiting one of the New York locations…or wait until next year when the next box will magically appear on my desk.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Unexpected Find: S’mores Cookie

Though bakeries are the default when exploring new sweets options, there are some establishments that manage to surprise with delicious desserts. The s-mores cookies at Little Muenster is a primary example.

S’mores Cookie

This small restaurant on the Lower East Side is focused on delivering “super fancy” grilled cheese sandwiches, blending artisanal cheeses with unexpected ingredients like leek confit and pancetta. On a blustery cold day, a friend and I stopped in for the signature items – a grilled cheese accompanied with a bowl of tomato soup – and stumbled upon an additional wonder – the s’mores cookie. The host/waitress notified us that there was a fresh batch coming out of the oven shortly, and we waited in anticipation.

Out of the back of the small venue emerged three hockey puck-sized treats, the marshmallow appearing gooey and freshly roasted. We audibly gasped as they were delivered to the table, steaming hot and smelling of cookie dough. We broke into them, and discovered the melted chocolate distributed through the cookie, the stickiness of the melted marshmallow, the chewiness of the cookie itself. Though a graham cracker flavor was not particularly present, it did not deter us from devouring the treats in their entirety. For this establishment go for the namesake, but stay for the dessert.

Until next time,
SugarSource

 

Best of NYC: Commerce Coconut Cake

Admittedly I am a coconut fan – it takes on a subtly crunchy, nuttier flavor when baked, and adds an extra, welcome element to a traditional vanilla cake. My go-to is the stellar version at Commerce, a gem slightly hidden in the West Village. With warm wood accents, a muted-toned mural spanning the majority of the restaurant, and a 70s-throwback bar, the restaurant welcomes diners to experience delicious dinners and delightful desserts.

The coconut cake appears at the table, a significant slice with shreds of coconut poking out of every nook and cranny. One forkful, delicately maneuvered through the layers of cake and icing, begins the adventure. The cake is light and well-balanced, and the frosting presents a heavier creamier, but not sweeter, element. There is no mistaking that this is a coconut cake, as the star flavor is present in every bite, with flakes topping every frosted layer. Accompanied by water, dessert wine, or espresso, it can hold its own.

While best shared with a companion, it is possible that this behemoth could serve as an entree on its own. It is a wonderful way to end an evening, and worth a trip for dessert alone.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Best of NYC: The First Cupcakery Experience

I recently had the opportunity to visit the establishment that started it all for me – the Cupcake Cafe, located in the Hells Kitchen neighborhood of Manhattan. The cupcakes were as beautifully decorated as I remember them being when I first pressed my fingers to the glass as a child. The icing quickly softens outside of the refrigerated case, and the flower petals are delicious to savor before biting into the moist case beneath.

 

With a mixture of nostalgia and just the right delivery of sugar, this place remains a favorite near and dear to my heart, as well as one of the original sources of my awakening to all of the wonders that are cupcakes.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Best of NYC: Bonbons Français

Bonbon français, or French sweets, are found throughout New York City. Though I am sure there are many other delightful places to try, I have given a few a go and I have to say, they are worth it!

– Francois Payard: The hot chocolate and pistachio macaron. Americans are used to the Swiss Miss variety of hot chocolate, generally speaking, and the French take this steamy creamy drink to the next level. It is as if they have melted chocolate bars, and poured this hot confection in your cup. Though I am pretty sure they add milk, this isn’t far from the process. The pistachio macaron was delightful as well – fluffy, not too buttery, with a pure pistachio flavor and a slight crunch from the nut.

– Bouchon Bakery: The vanilla macaron. I have tried many macarons around the city, and I have to say that the vanilla version at Bouchon is one of my favorites. Simple, yet packed with flavor, this little package is a perfect complement to any meal – breakfast, lunch, dinner, espresso or drinks. The caramel version tastes as if you are biting into a soft caramel – delicious, but quite sweet – and the chocolate nutella is expectedly tasty, though not the standout here.

Raspberry almond croissant, Mille Feuille

– Mille Feuille: The raspberry croissant. I have written about this before, and I have to say, my original description rings true. As you sink your teeth into the pastry, you first taste a tart raspberry powder that sticks to your lips and teeth. After the initial tangy shock, you experience the flaky, buttery croissant and reach the filling – simple, marvelous raspberry jam, completing the experience. It will be gone before you know it, but try to savor it as much as possible.

– Maison Kayser: The almond croissant. The flakiness of the pastry, the rich creamy almond paste in the middle. A classic, and done wonderfully here at this boulanger. The fruit tarts – particularly the raspberry – were delicious as well. Simple flavor profiles executed exceptionally.

– Dominique Ansel: Perhaps best known for inventing the cronut, the originals in the bakery are my go-to, not the flashy new inventions (though his latest – cookie shots – did intrigue me). The cannele de Bordeaux are heavenly – a crunchy, caramel exterior lends to a soft, dense flavorful cake inside. Though small and simply flavored, they should not be underestimated. The little egg sandwich, while not particularly French, is a wonderful breakfast package you will not regret. Fluffy eggs, melty cheese, and bread that holds it own.

Bon appetit, mes amis!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Sweet Go-Tos – New York Edition

New York offers a wide variety of traditional as well as atypical confections for enjoyment. Through experimenting and many afternoons of taste-testing, I have found a few to be fail-safe when a hankering for something sweet comes along.

Mellow Days,
Cafe Angelique

Cookies: Levain Bakery is at the top of my list. A small storefront identified by the bright blue awning (and the possible gathering or line out front) on 74th St on the Upper West Side houses delectable cookies. With four flavors to choose from, you can’t go wrong though my personal favorites are the Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter and the Dark Chocolate Chocolate chip. Warm and gooey, you will quickly have your hands covered in chocolate and your belly will be full of warm cookie. These are large and rich, so I would suggest sharing unless you are willing to suffer the consequences of overindulgence.

Cupcakes: Cafe Angelique. This West Village cafe has some of the best, most balanced cupcakes I’ve tasted in New York. The Mellow Days has a well-balanced, moist and springy vanilla cake topped with a mellow vanilla icing (hence the name) and a few mini marshmallows. The peppermint cupcake was refreshing and had a snap to it similar to that of a candy cane.

Ice Cream Sundae: Farmacy. This Brooklyn Heights tribute to the soda fountains of old will take you back to another time.  Homemade whoopie pies and shakes are available alongside a lengthy list of decadent sundaes. From favorites like a Warm Brownie Sundae to more daring combinations such as The Elvis (chocolate chip ice cream, peanut butter, candied bacon and a pickle slice), Farmacy has something to please anyone. My personal favorite is The Cookie Monster, an ode to the Sesame Street character, complete with a hearty sprinkling of blue sugar.

The Cookie Monster,
Farmacy

Pudding: Sugar Sweet Sunshine. Though Magnolia Bakery and Buttercup Bakeshop have delicious banana puddings, the chocolate chip pudding at Sugar Sweet Sunshine is a cut above the rest. Layers of whipped cream, broken bits of homemade chocolate chip cookies, and butterscotch pudding combine to be absolutely outstanding.

This is not an exhaustive list, by any means, as there are many other forms of dessert that have been left off this list. Perhaps for a post in the future…

Until next time,

SugarSource