Spotlight: Macaron Class Tips

After taking the macaron class at Mille Feuille and reflecting on the initial experience, I wanted to share some of the tips imparted on the participants to avoid mishaps like the shell shown below. I know I will be using these to guide my first at-home attempt to make these French delights!

The Batter

• When making the initial sugar syrup for the Italian meringue, it is important to heat to 245 degrees. Too hot, and the meringue will be too elastic. Too cold, and the meringue will be too loose or soft.
• Use day-old egg whites for the meringue to achieve the right consistency. Separate and refrigerate a day in advance, as they slowly start to break down.
• Avoid over-mixing at all costs. You cannot continue with the macarons if you over-mix, because the batter will be too runny.
• When testing the consistency of the batter, if the ribbon from the pastry scraper breaks, it indicates it is under-mixed.

Baking

• If you do not allow the shells to properly dry after initial piping, they can crack in the oven.
• If you do not bang the air bubbles out and flatten the batter properly, the shells can crack.

The Filling

• If you plan to use a fruit filling like a jam, bake a little longer (roughly 30 seconds), as it will cause the shells to be soggier after assembly.
• If you want to use a fruit filling, only use preserves. Jelly should not be considered an appropriate substitute, as it lacks the concentration of fruit and flavor, as well as consistency required to be a good macaron filling.
• To cool your ganache quickly, spread onto baking sheet lined with parchment paper and pop into fridge.

Assembly

• When piping the ganache, complete one sandwich first. This will allow you to see how the consistency moves with the weight of the second shell – you may need more or less the next time, and you won’t have completed a whole row with too much or too little filling.
• Do not push on the center to sandwich them, as you could cause them to crack.

Serving

• If you use buttercream to fill the shells, you will need to pull the macarons out of the fridge roughly 20 minutes ahead of when you would like to serve them. They should not be left out for too long, or the butter will start to melt.

Hopefully the tips and tricks above help you avoid any classic macaron mistakes!

Until next time,
SugarSource

 

Spotlight: Macaron Class

On a windy cold day in February, I am embarked on my second Mille Feuille class to learn the art of the macaron. We began with an introduction to the chef, a round of hand-washing and tying plastic aprons on, and we were off to the races.

First, we combined sugar and water in a saucepan, heating until 245 degrees. As the mixture was warming, we beat egg whites together until the frothiness disappeared. At peak temperature, we added the sugar into the egg whites, beating at a high speed until stiff shiny peaks appeared and the bowl itself started to cool. The mixture should look uniform – when the sugar is first introduced, the edges will still look foamy. This is called Italian meringue, and is the only type of meringue you can use for the batter.

In a separate larger mixing bowl, we combined almond flour, powdered sugar, egg whites and food coloring (if needed). After quartering the Italian meringue, we added it to the almond flour batter one quarter at a time. With the first two rounds we used a firm spoon, and a softer spatula with the last two, focusing on folding in the meringue. We looked for consistency in color and texture, and were careful to to avoid over-mixing. At the end of the mixing process, there were slight waves in the dough and when picked up with a pastry scraper, each batter had a consistent ribbon flow from the edge.

Pipe the dough onto a baking sheet covered in parchment paper. Each participant had a grid of small circles underneath the parchment to help guide us toward evenly sized and spaced shells. We started in the middle of each circle, flipping the bag completely straight downward and squeezing slowly 1/4″ away from the parchment paper. This allowed the circle to fill evenly without creating peaks. After completing a row (or two), we picked up our trays and banged on the bottom. This got rid of air bubbles and also helped to flatten the cookies for a shiny smooth texture. Once the sheet was full, our instructor placed them in a warm area to dry for 20-24 minutes.

We tested the shells by lightly tapping on the top with a fingertip – if any batter stuck, they were not quite ready. Once our fingers came away clean, the trays went into the oven.

While they baked, we prepared the ganaches, making vanilla, pistachio and chocolate to complement the three doughs made earlier. Each began by boiling cream until it just started to froth, then immediately adding it to a combination of chocolate, flavoring and, in the case of the chocolate ganache, butter. Once combined, we whipped with a whisk until it completely smooth. We were also treated to macaron samples as we waited. The espresso was rich and intense, the green tea matcha was earthy and captured the essence of the flavor, and the raspberry was sharp and full-bodied.

Once the baking is complete and the macarons have cooled for several minutes, we slid the parchment paper off of the baking sheet. Placing another sheet of paper over the macarons, we were then instructed to flip them in one fluid motion, pulling the top long-side corners together and away from us. It was slightly terrifying, but the macarons stick to the initial paper without issue. Using a tray with a sharp edge, we separated the parchment paper from the shells. I was quite cautious with this step, and it took me a few minutes. You can apply more pressure than you think without ruining them!

We then matched up each kind by size – mine were nowhere near uniform, and you want similar-sized macarons for each sandwich. Typically it is better to wait 24-36 hours before filling the shells. However, if you can’t wait – like in a 2.5 hour class – you can spray the shells with water (very lightly) before filling. We piped the ganache in a similar fashion to the shells, leaving a slight border. After completing a row, I placed each corresponding shell on top and lightly twisted the two together.

Once complete macarons can last up to five days in the fridge, or a few weeks in the freezer. The experience was delightful and less intimidating than I thought it would be. I would not have attempted to bake these myself without the class, and now I am excited to try it on my own sometime soon!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Spotlight: Ladureé Ladureé

Another birthday has come and gone and would not have been complete without a box of Ladureé macarons. The decorative packaging, the prestige surrounding the lauded French establishment, the beauty of the colorful cookies…and did I mention the taste?

The chocolate macaron manages to be light and fudgy, the pistachio is nutty, the caramel rich and decadent, and the raspberry sweet and tart, the filling scattered with seeds. The Marie Antoinette perplexed me with the robin’s egg-blue hue and difficult to distinguish flavor profile. A bit of Googling helped me determine it is traditionally black tea and honey, but unfortunately the treat was long-gone by the time of this discovery.

An added perk for receiving such a gift for my birthday? I didn’t have to wait in the (historically long) line, though it is a dream to make it to the original location in Paris. In the meantime, I will stick to visiting one of the New York locations…or wait until next year when the next box will magically appear on my desk.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Travel Spotlight: Boston + Philly Sweets

Boston and Philadelphia both offer rich history – Boston Commons, the Liberty Bell, the streets where the Founding Fathers wandered to ponder the fate of this nascent nation. They also provide great opportunities for tasting delicious desserts.

Beantown (Boston)

Lulu’s

– JP Licks: The chocolate chocolate cupcake was not anything to write home about, and was amongst a small selection of cupcakes at the store known for it’s ice cream treats. I would recommend sticking with the store’s original offering instead of trying a baked good.

– Sweet Cupcakes: This cupcakery offered some off-beat varieties including caramel macchiato, maple cranberry and caramel apple. The macchiato did not have a strong coffee flavor – I would have assumed this was more of the vanilla variety if it hadn’t been for the label. The caramel apple was quite sticky, which wasn’t necessarily a bad attribute but it didn’t have the full flavor execution of other cupcakes with this same profile. It was difficult to locate the maple in the maple cranberry, and it was quite sweet – added sugar did not make up for lack of flavor.

– Lulu’s Sweet Shoppe: I committed a Boston sin and had cupcakes (gingerbread and chocolate salted caramel) in the North End instead of the traditional cannoli. The woman working the shop actually kept it open (I had called earlier regarding their hours), and opened the door just for me, which was a wonderful gesture! The gingerbread was decent, though a little dry – I missed the solid punch of ginger that I was hoping for, though molasses and cinnamon were both present. The chocolate salted caramel was about average for this type.

Philadelphia
In the city of Brotherly Love, there are some lovely confections for the trying.

Fruit Loop Macaron,
Sugar Truck Philly

– Reading Terminal: The lemon cake at Termini Bros is heavenly. After a quick day trip to the city for work, I managed to grab one of these delightful mini cakes on my way to the train station. What a great way to unwind from a long day of meetings – the cake was light, moist, and perfectly portioned for one (in my opinion). I’ve since tried some of the other offerings, such as the pecan bar and brownie, but the favorite remains the lemon cake.

– Morimoto: The yuzu meringue tart is delicious. A heavy dollop of whipped egg whites sites atop the yuzu tart – tart, citrusy filling and a buttery crust. I would recommend sharing – while it is scrumptious, it proved to be too sugary for one person to handle.

– Sugar Truck Philly: The fruit loop macaron was a tightly packed sugar punch! The flavor of Fruit Loops was absolutely present – it was as if they managed to condense the cereal into the soft, chewy outer shell of the macaron. It was almost too sweet for my liking, leaving my teeth slightly achy as an after-effect.

While only a small sampling, it did give me a sense of the variety available on the Eastern seaboard, and I’m anxious to return.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Best of NYC: Bonbons Français

Bonbon français, or French sweets, are found throughout New York City. Though I am sure there are many other delightful places to try, I have given a few a go and I have to say, they are worth it!

– Francois Payard: The hot chocolate and pistachio macaron. Americans are used to the Swiss Miss variety of hot chocolate, generally speaking, and the French take this steamy creamy drink to the next level. It is as if they have melted chocolate bars, and poured this hot confection in your cup. Though I am pretty sure they add milk, this isn’t far from the process. The pistachio macaron was delightful as well – fluffy, not too buttery, with a pure pistachio flavor and a slight crunch from the nut.

– Bouchon Bakery: The vanilla macaron. I have tried many macarons around the city, and I have to say that the vanilla version at Bouchon is one of my favorites. Simple, yet packed with flavor, this little package is a perfect complement to any meal – breakfast, lunch, dinner, espresso or drinks. The caramel version tastes as if you are biting into a soft caramel – delicious, but quite sweet – and the chocolate nutella is expectedly tasty, though not the standout here.

Raspberry almond croissant, Mille Feuille

– Mille Feuille: The raspberry croissant. I have written about this before, and I have to say, my original description rings true. As you sink your teeth into the pastry, you first taste a tart raspberry powder that sticks to your lips and teeth. After the initial tangy shock, you experience the flaky, buttery croissant and reach the filling – simple, marvelous raspberry jam, completing the experience. It will be gone before you know it, but try to savor it as much as possible.

– Maison Kayser: The almond croissant. The flakiness of the pastry, the rich creamy almond paste in the middle. A classic, and done wonderfully here at this boulanger. The fruit tarts – particularly the raspberry – were delicious as well. Simple flavor profiles executed exceptionally.

– Dominique Ansel: Perhaps best known for inventing the cronut, the originals in the bakery are my go-to, not the flashy new inventions (though his latest – cookie shots – did intrigue me). The cannele de Bordeaux are heavenly – a crunchy, caramel exterior lends to a soft, dense flavorful cake inside. Though small and simply flavored, they should not be underestimated. The little egg sandwich, while not particularly French, is a wonderful breakfast package you will not regret. Fluffy eggs, melty cheese, and bread that holds it own.

Bon appetit, mes amis!

Until next time,
SugarSource