Unexpected Find: The Delayed Egg Wash

As you may know, my second attempt at croissants resulted in a quite pale version of the original. After realizing a little late in the initial baking process that I had not slathered egg wash atop each roll, I was disheartened at the pasty pastries that I extracted from the oven. As I gazed at their less-than-glossy surfaces, I wondered if I could apply the egg wash and try a second round in the oven. Would this ruin them for good, or revive them? I had to try!

At the same baking temperature as before – 360 degrees – I applied the wash to one previously baked croissant (using more yolk than white), and left one without to test the variation. In they went for roughly 6 minutes. At first there appeared to be no observable difference between the two but, after the time was up, there was a remarkable transformation for one. It became golden, the texture of the pastry more pronounced (and most certainly more appetizing).

What I did not expect was that the croissants themselves would thus feel so different. The egg wash infused the first with moisture, allowing for an easy tear reminiscent of the first croissants I had baked. The second “unwashed” version was difficult to separate into two halves, seeming to have gotten drier and tougher.

All in all, I now know that I could have popped out the croissants the moment I realized the wash was missing, painted it atop each proofed piece of dough, and the pastries ultimately would have been fine. A successful experiment, but one I hope not to repeat (by remembering the wash in the first place)!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Spotlight: Croissant Class – Take Two

After initially taking the croissant class at Mille Feuille in December, I thought I was ready to tackle baking croissants. The course may have left me a little overconfident, and my first batch proved to be less-than-appetizing. With that in mind, I wanted to share my top tips:

• Do not let the dough proof before you have rolled and assembled your croissants. Upon departing Mille Feuille, I proceeded to run errands for hours, allowing the dough plenty of opportunity to rise in my purse. Though it did not make it mess, it did complicate the rolling and proofing process once I was ready to make use of it.
• Related, but somewhat different: do not allow your dough to get too warm. The butter will start to melt, reducing the overall flakiness of the pastries.
• Do not attempt to use the dough after a few days. The yeast will slowly lose its ability to activate.
• Do use a good amount of flour to help with the rolling process, but do not forget to brush it off before you assemble or proof the pastries. Excess flour can lead to a bitter or distorted taste.
• If you do not have a convection oven, placing an empty baking sheet below the sheet with pastries helps to create a convection-like environment.
• Do not forget the egg wash step after proofing! Croissants have that beautiful golden-brown hue because of this step and it should not be overlooked. Otherwise, they may turn out like the above!

I will give croissants another shot, from start to finish in my own kitchen, using the directions provided by the instructor.

Until next time,
SugarSource

Spotlight: Croissant Class – Take One

I finally took the plunge, and signed up for a croissant class at Mille Feuille‘s Laguardia Place location in Greenwich Village this December. As a huge fan of their croissants for years, this felt like the appropriate place to begin my tutelage.

The participants slowly began trickling into the back of the small storefront. Our instructor introduced himself, provided aprons for everyone and started class. We began by shaping our croissants, as they needed to proof before baking. Typically baking croissants is a three-day process, but this has been condensed considerably for this three-hour course! Our instructor walked us through the basic shapes and techniques, and provided constructive criticism to improve our individual trays of treats. After we had worked our way through the dough provided, rolling as carefully as possible, he popped them into the proofing drawer.

From there, he demonstrated the butter-layering process. I am embarrassed to say I had no idea how much butter was added to these delightful breads. After beating our slabs of butter into rectangular shapes, we slowly began the rolling, folding and re-rolling process. It was quite the lower arm work-out, and I was thankful to be moving around, as the air-conditioning made the room chilly. Our instructor would later inform us that it needed to be relatively cold in the room to ensure the butter did not begin to melt, which would ruin the croissants. They do recommend bringing an extra sweater in the event it is too cold!

After the croissants were done proofing, we slathered them in egg wash, re-arranged them on our trays for optimal baking, and then he placed them into the oven. He used a few of the leftover slivers as “appetizers,” and they were a delicious way to create a natural break for the class. I only wish they had provided the hot drink (described online), but unfortunately one was never offered.

Finally, he showed us how to make the dough and how to test if the gluten has been activated. A pro tip: if the gluten has been activated, croissant dough can be used as pizza dough instead!

All in all, the session was very informative, and I left the bakery with over 15 croissants and my own butter-layered dough for baking my next versions at home.

I would absolutely recommend it to anyone looking to learn more about how croissants are made or to hone their baking skills. Next up will be the macaron class!

Until next time,
SugarSource

Best of NYC: Bonbons Français

Bonbon français, or French sweets, are found throughout New York City. Though I am sure there are many other delightful places to try, I have given a few a go and I have to say, they are worth it!

– Francois Payard: The hot chocolate and pistachio macaron. Americans are used to the Swiss Miss variety of hot chocolate, generally speaking, and the French take this steamy creamy drink to the next level. It is as if they have melted chocolate bars, and poured this hot confection in your cup. Though I am pretty sure they add milk, this isn’t far from the process. The pistachio macaron was delightful as well – fluffy, not too buttery, with a pure pistachio flavor and a slight crunch from the nut.

– Bouchon Bakery: The vanilla macaron. I have tried many macarons around the city, and I have to say that the vanilla version at Bouchon is one of my favorites. Simple, yet packed with flavor, this little package is a perfect complement to any meal – breakfast, lunch, dinner, espresso or drinks. The caramel version tastes as if you are biting into a soft caramel – delicious, but quite sweet – and the chocolate nutella is expectedly tasty, though not the standout here.

Raspberry almond croissant, Mille Feuille

– Mille Feuille: The raspberry croissant. I have written about this before, and I have to say, my original description rings true. As you sink your teeth into the pastry, you first taste a tart raspberry powder that sticks to your lips and teeth. After the initial tangy shock, you experience the flaky, buttery croissant and reach the filling – simple, marvelous raspberry jam, completing the experience. It will be gone before you know it, but try to savor it as much as possible.

– Maison Kayser: The almond croissant. The flakiness of the pastry, the rich creamy almond paste in the middle. A classic, and done wonderfully here at this boulanger. The fruit tarts – particularly the raspberry – were delicious as well. Simple flavor profiles executed exceptionally.

– Dominique Ansel: Perhaps best known for inventing the cronut, the originals in the bakery are my go-to, not the flashy new inventions (though his latest – cookie shots – did intrigue me). The cannele de Bordeaux are heavenly – a crunchy, caramel exterior lends to a soft, dense flavorful cake inside. Though small and simply flavored, they should not be underestimated. The little egg sandwich, while not particularly French, is a wonderful breakfast package you will not regret. Fluffy eggs, melty cheese, and bread that holds it own.

Bon appetit, mes amis!

Until next time,
SugarSource